First Light & Slow Nights: A Camper’s Escape to Tairāwhiti Gisborne 🌅
Tairāwhiti Gisborne is a land of firsts. It’s the first place in the world to see the sun clip the horizon each morning and the first landing site of the navigator Kupe. This region is where the rugged "East Coast" pace meets world-class Chardonnay and deep Māori heritage.
For those traveling by camper, this itinerary is designed as a seamless journey, and with 18 free campsites and 24 paid campgrounds to pick from, road tripping the region is easy!
Whether you're entering via the wild Motu River from Ōpōtiki or winding along the legendary Highway 35, this route takes you through the heart of Tairāwhiti Gisborne, packed with regional must-dos and hidden gems.
Flexibility Note: While this guide follows a Southbound flow, it can easily be done in reverse. It also makes for a perfect addition to a longer North Island loop—simply tag it onto a Bay of Plenty or Hawke’s Bay road trip to see the "Wild East" in all its glory.
The legendary Highway 35 coastal route
Jump to a Day
Plan your passage—from the rugged Motu to the vines of the south.
Day 1: The Gateway — Motu Jets & Coastal Treks
Day 2: Highway 35 — Sacred Summits & Coastal Icons
Day 3: Gisborne — Reefs, Surfs & Sips
Bonus Day: Arboretums & Natural Slides
🚤 Day 1: The Gateway — Motu Jets & Coastal Treks
Backcountry Blasts & Beachside Saddles
Approx. 170 km driving | Entering from Ōpōtiki
If you’re coming from the Bay of Plenty, once you pass through Ōpōtiki, continue along the coast and start with a splash with a Motu River Jet adventure! This isn't your standard lake spin; it’s a high-octane blast through remote backcountry and ancient gorges. The jet boat takes you deep into the Raukumara Ranges, where you might spot wild deer or goats along the riverbanks.
Jet boating the mighty Motu
As you hit the coast and join the legendary Highway 35, stop at the seaside settlement of Te Kaha for a relaxed lunch at the Te Kaha Beach Hotel, soaking in the salt air.
Now it’s time for a very different ride as you swap the jet boat for something a little more traditional. Te Kaha Standfast Horse Treks offers guided rides through the raw, untouched beauty of Te Whānau-ā-Apanui—from the mighty Kereu River to the rugged coastline of Te Kaha.
This isn’t your average trek; it’s an experience that connects you to whenua (land), wairua (spirit), and the heartbeat of the East Coast.
The Anglican Church of Raukokore rivals the Church of the Good Sherpherd as the countries most picturesque church
Continue along the East Cape, stopping to take in the postcard-perfect Anglican Church of Raukokore, before around the headland and continuing on to Te Araroa.. Grab a classic Kiwi fish and chip supper from Kai Kart Te Araroa Takeaway and head to the beach to watch the light fade over the Pacific.
- Stay: Te Araroa Holiday Park. A peaceful end to your first day, under the dark stars of this remote headland.
- Eat: Te Kaha Beach Hotel (Lunch), Grab a "Real Fruit" ice cream in Te Kaha (Snack), Kai Kart Te Araroa Takeaway (Dinner).
🌊 Day 2: Highway 35 — Sacred Summits & Coastal Icons
Dawn Carvings, Pāua Pies & The Longest Pier
Approx. 200 km driving | The heart of the East Coast
Prepare for an epic, soul-stirring start to your day with a dawn tour of Maunga Hikurangi. This is the sacred mountain of Ngāti Porou and the first place on mainland New Zealand to greet the sun.
Note: Access is via guided 4WD tours only. These are essential to experience the nine massive, breathtaking whakairo (carvings) that depict the Maui legends, glowing as the first light hits.
Next, stop off at the stunning Tokomaru Bay at either Te Puka Tavern for epic lnunch time views, or for a legendary pāua pie at Café 35. You’ll need the fuel for the afternoon walk!
Stretch your legs on the Anaura Bay Walkway. This 2-hour loop track climbs through native forest to spectacular clifftop viewpoints, giving you a bird’s-eye look at the turquoise sweep of the bay before you descend back to the sand.
The iconic Tolaga Bay Wharf
Finish your afternoon with a visit to Tolaga Bay Wharf—at 660 metres, it's the longest of its kind in NZ and a must-walk for that "middle of the ocean" feeling.
- Stay: Free camp at the designated areas in Tokomaru Bay for a rugged experience, or opt for the powered sites at Tolaga Bay TOP 10 Holiday Park.
- Eat: Café 35, Te Puka Tavern (Lunch). Shop for some local produce from the Uawa Foodmarket (Dinner).
🌅 Day 3: Gisborne — Reefs, Surfs & Sips
Stingrays, Chardonnay & City Vibes
Approx. 80 km driving | Coastal city life
This day needs to be flexible, and is also weather dependant, so we have give you lots of options here!
Start your day with a walk right by your campgorund, and journey back in time at the Cooks Cove Walkway. This 2.5-hour return hike leads you to a secluded, historic cove where the Endeavour anchored in 1769. The lookout points provide some of the most dramatic sunrise vistas on the coast—well worth the early alarm.
The undisputed highlight of the day is Dive Tatapouri. Don your waders and step out onto the reef to meet with wild stingrays and eagle rays. It’s a world-class wildlife encounter that’s ideal for all ages—huge props to the team for winning a TripAdvisor Traveller's Choice Award!
Crucial Tip: This tour is 100% tide-dependent. Check the tour times with the operator in advance and build your daily schedule around it.
Dive Tatapouri’s award winning Reef Ecology tour is a must-do
If the tide is out in the morning, do your reef tour then head into the city. As you cruise into Gisborne, check the swell at Wainui and Waikanae.
If you aren't surfing, grab a brew at Zephyr Wainui to watch the locals tackle the world’s first waves. If the tide pushes your reef tour to the afternoon, spend your morning among the vines at Matawhero Wines or Wrights Vineyard and Winery.
- Stay: Waikanae Beach TOP 10 Holiday Park. Perched right on the dunes and a stroll away from city eateries.
- Eat: Curbside Kitchen (Breakfast), Tahu(Breakfast) (Lunch), Sunshine Brewery (Afternoon Paddles), Neptune’s Pizza or Neighbourhood Cantina (Dinner).
🌳 Bonus Day: Arboretums & Natural Slides
Railbikes, National Treasures & The Rere Rock Slide
Approx. 70 km driving | Exiting via SH2 or SH5
If you have a spare day, or if you're an avid cyclist, catch a ride on the Gisborne Railbikes for a stunning cycle along the coast before you leave the region.
After, head inland for a nature double-header.
Eastwoodhill Arboretum
Start at the Eastwoodhill Arboretum, the National Arboretum of New Zealand. Its 131 hectares are home to an incredible collection of trees—stunning in any season.
Just 15 minutes further down the road is the famous Rere Rock Slide. Grab a bodyboard and fly down the 60m long natural sandstone slide into the swimming hole below. It’s the ultimate way to wash off the salt before you hit the road toward Taupō or Napier.
Rere Rockslide Waterfall
🗓️ Markets & Events Guide
- Gisborne Farmers' Market: Held every Saturday (9:30 am – 12:30 pm). Perfect for snagging world-famous local citrus and artisanal cheeses.
- First Light Wine & Food Festival: Usually held around Labour Weekend in October. Held across two venues Matawhero Wines and TW Wines. First Light Wine & Food Festival is a celebration of award-winning vineyards, live music, and sunshine.
✅ Tips for a Smooth Trip
- Direction: This itinerary works perfectly in reverse if you are arriving from Napier or Taupō.
- Tide Timing: Dive Tatapouri must be done at low tide. Check the charts before you plan your Day 3.
- Fuel and Food: Highway 35 is remote. Fill up your tank and your pantry in Ōpōtiki or Gisborne.
- The Pace: You’re on "East Coast Time" now. Don't rush the winding roads; the views are better when you're slow.
- Check out a full list of Food and Beverage Highlights in Gisborne
🚗 Tairāwhiti: The Journey That Stays With You
Leaving Tairāwhiti always feels a little like waking up from a good dream. Whether you entered through the misty Motu or the sun-drenched Highway 35, the region has a way of resetting your internal clock.
You came for the first light, the wild stingrays, and the wines, but you'll remember the quiet bays, the thrill of the Rere Rock Slide, and the feeling of being at the very edge of the world.
